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Squeezing Sakau in Hibiscus Bark
_    First of all, my apologies for the delay in this post.  Like most people, things were busier than normal around the holidays.  I promised at the end of my last post that my next entry I was going to take a break from writing about education and instead discuss something cultural.  As I was looking for cultural topics to write about, it hit me again that I have become so accustomed to the culture here that it’s difficult for me to recognize how remarkably different this place is compared to America.  I suspected that the holidays would present many new traditions and customs that I have not confronted yet.  My suspicions were confirmed when attending several local Christmas parties.

    A major part of Pohnpeian culture is sakau (pronounced sa-cow).  Also known as kava, this drink used to be a ceremonial drink only available to the highest of the traditional leadership, but now is consumed by 70% of Pohnpeians, with many drinking it daily.  It’s rare to go more than a mile without seeing the sign “Mie Sakau” (We have Sakau).  The drink’s main effects are making the consumer very relaxed and tired, producing not exactly a “high” but more of a total-body lull.  Subjectively, I believe the widespread drinking of sakau is not as bad as alcohol.  Take for example how it affects driving capabilities.  We all know that driving drunk can lead to disastrous consequences.  Driving under the influence of sakau however is more funny than dangerous.  The average speed of a sakau driver is 1-3mph.  I have passed cars going this slow more times than I can count.  As you can imagine, when a sakau driver crashes into a tree, he falls asleep, wakes up the next morning, and goes about his merry way. 

    This Christmas I had the chance to try sakau.  Sakau is consumed across many islands in the Pacific, but is unique to each island.  Therefore, you often hear about the preparation of “sakau en Pohnpei,” i.e. Pohnpeian sakau.  It is prepared by crushing the roots of the kava plant.  In almost every nas in Pohnpei (the traditional huts) there is a flat piece of basaltic stone for the preparation of sakau.  The root is pounded with rounded river rocks then some water is added.  The mushy root/water substance is then packed into the bark from a hibiscus tree.  Consequently, it is twisted until the liquid substance is squeezed into a communal coconut cup when it is ready to drink.  The substance is viscous, thanks to the hibiscus sap. 

    I was slightly concerned about trying sakau because I heard of a non-local having his tongue go numb for three months and having to talk with a lisp after drinking sakau.  I wanted though to try it, at least to say I partook in a central element of Pohnpeian culture.  I only took a large sip but it was unlike anything I have ever tasted.  Immediately, I felt a numbing/tingling sensation on my lips.  I was warned that many find the taste absolutely disgusting.  It looks like muddy water, and kind of tastes like that as well, but I didn’t find it that dreadful.  The numbing sensation lasted for about ten minutes.  I never had a lisp though and wasn’t concerned the sensation would remain for long! 

    While I’m glad I had the chance to try sakau, I’m concerned over how dramatically it impacts the Pohnpeian people.  I have read that it has no addictive properties, but many locals are obsessed with sakau and have to drink it every day.  Whether that qualifies as an “addiction” is a matter of opinion.  I have no hard evidence to support this, but I strongly suspect that the consistent consumption of sakau is disturbing normal brain functions.  Those who drink it daily seem to function even slower than normal and overall the sakau culture is a large contributor to the general snail-like pace of all proceedings in Pohnpei.  All that said, sakau is a major part of Pohnpeian life despite the diminished impact of traditional culture and will likely remain that way for years to come. 

    This weekend, I am looking forward to experiencing the Pohnpeian New Year.  Apparently, things get pretty crazy – New Year is a big deal.  So this year say “Parakup Mwao” (Pear-a-cup Mwow) – “Happy New Year” in Pohnpeian. 

     On the work side of things, I had the chance to tag along with John and meet Governor Ehsa (the Governor of Pohnpei) the week before Christmas to discuss our education project and learn more about opportunities for potential funding.  We also have been busy writing grants to the Australian Embassy and developing our iPad program further.  I’m looking forward to getting back in the schools next week and getting started with our program!

    After talking with some relatives and friends back in the States I have been alerted that more pictures are necessary!  Click here for a random collection of shots from November and December!


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Squeezing Sakau into Communal Coconut Cup
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The Flag of Pohnpei - notice the communal coconut cup for sakau front and center
 
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__     The world has 6.8 billion people.  Pohnpei, a tiny island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, has a population just under 36,000.  I’m willing to bet a large sum that the vast majority of you probably first heard of Pohnpei through my coming here.  I know this because out of the probably over 100 people I talked to about my plans to serve here, only one person had ever heard of Micronesia.  Indeed, in the world of current affairs, Pohnpei and Micronesia are not at the top of the Google search.

    When discussing how to fundraise and effectively solicit funding for our various projects, one of the main questions I have proposed is how do we get people to care about this tiny island?  There are many possible answers to that question.  The first that comes to mind is obvious - “these are people too – why should they receive any less attention or resources just because they live on a small island?”  This is perhaps the best answer.  When it comes to our education projects however, I have a special answer to why Pohnpei matters.

    In the developing world there is an overwhelming lack of educational resources.  Only the extraordinary students will flourish and have a chance to further their education at the collegiate level or beyond.  Throughout Micronesia however, this is not the case.  Thanks to the US government, students here have the same privileges found on Native American reservations – access to a free education through the graduate level.  This isn't written anywhere, but the number of scholarships available is immense, to not just the exceptional students, but the average and below-par as well.  There are not many places in the world where the youth have this much access to a free college and graduate school education.

    The tragedy though is the amazing opportunities available to these students are regularly wasted.  When students do take advantage of these scholarships and go to college, they often face so much remedial education that they drop out after a semester or flounder and go to school for six years before their funding runs dry.  Of course there are exceptions to this, but this is the general trend.

    If these students managed to catch up with their reading proficiency, developed an intellectual curiosity, and pursued further education, the sky truly is the limit.  It all starts though with bringing these kids up to speed so they are reading at or above grade level.  We have a program in place that will make a difference in the lives of these students.  The entire MAHI team has a sense of urgency that is palpable.  It’s exciting to be part of this movement to help improve the education system here on Pohnpei.  This is all a very, very slow process, but we are in this for the long haul.  Would you like to join the movement?  MAHI International is supported solely by generous individuals.  Click here to learn how to make a gift!

    There's nothing much worse than wasted talent and opportunity.  If we follow the status quo, nothing will change and this failed system will continue to produce students unprepared to continue their education.  With support, we can buck this trend and change lives, generating students with an extremely bright future taking advantage of all the opportunities presented before them.

    I recognize my last few posts have focused on education - I promise my next post will be focused on my interactions with the culture and my experiences in and around Pohnpei!


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Recent sunset on the outskirts of Kolonia
 
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John introducing the dictionaries
     In the public eye, there is a clear distinction between non-profit organizations – faith-based or secular.  The former engage in proselytizing activities while the latter focus on providing basic human services or raising awareness for a cause.  Often however, the distinction is not so black and white.  MAHI International is one of the organizations that falls in the gray area.  Described as a “Christian-driven” organization, MAHI focuses on providing for the needs of the islanders, in areas such as healthcare, education and energy. 

    From a personal perspective, I believe sharing the Gospel is one of the most valuable services you can provide.  In the same breath, I believe it’s possible to live out the Gospel by helping others in different ways.  MAHI has done this by donating beds to a hospital, working to improve literacy in the schools, and installing solar panels on outer islands, just to name a few.  This reflects one of my favorite quotes from St. Francis of Assisi: “Preach the Gospel at all times and when necessary use words.”

    This past Wednesday, the MAHI team assisted in the delivery of new dictionaries donated by the Rotary Club to all 8th graders on Pohnpei, visiting over 15 schools.  Many of the kids were absolutely stoked to receive their early Christmas present.  In one school, the teacher told all her students on Monday that they needed to have a dictionary by Friday.  We asked how many had purchased one yet – we saw no hands.  Shortly thereafter, the teacher said we were “sent from above!” 

    That wasn’t the first time I have heard such a comment.  Indeed, as a Christian-driven organization fulfilling secular needs, I always smile when I’m reminded that we are doing God’s work.  While it would be great to hand out Bibles, the majority of these students are reading three grades or more below grade level, as found by our student reading level assessments.  Mind you, that assessment was only testing if the student could read the words – comprehension wasn’t even a factor. 

    Distributing dictionaries won’t educate these students and send them to college, just like handing out Bibles won’t immediately lead to spiritual revival.  Both are only mere steps in a long journey.  I went to college in a campus that can fairly be defined as liberal, like most college campuses.  Every year the Gideons came to town and handed out free pocket Bibles.  I was always excited to receive a free Bible, but was disappointed to see other students take the Bible and throw them out, or openly ridicule the people distributing them.  While in theory handing out “the good Word” is never a bad thing, it was obvious that it was going to take a lot more than handing out a book to convert anyone that day.  Similarly, we have a lot more work on our hands to combat illiteracy on Pohnpei than just handing out dictionaries.  There is no silver-bullet solution, but these dictionaries are another tool in our arsenal.

    We are moving forward in our education program, working out logistics regarding our community night with all the schools, where we plan to present all our results and galvanize support for education among the parents and community leaders.  The Christmas spirit is in the air, which is weird for me given it's over 80 degrees every day! 

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With all the 8th Graders at Pohnlangas Elementary School
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A little roadblock on the road to Salapwuk Elementary School
 
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A student working at Sekere School
    The answer for every single issue in our world is simple: education.  That might seem like a broad statement, but try to think of a problem that can’t be solved by an educated citizenry.  Most issues are extremely complex and it is foolish to seek a silver bullet solution.  However, it is imperative we recognize how crucial it is that the children of today know how to think critically and express their beliefs and opinions through oral and written mediums.  The future will be built upon science, math and engineering, while we will progress through our ability to read and write.  Education opens up a world of possibility if only we hold high standards and recognize our limitless potential.
    I am not familiar with any statistical study proving this, but I believe that the area most critical to the success of a school or education as a whole in a selected area, is the presence or absence of a culture of achievement.  If the standards are high at all levels – government administration, school officials, teachers, parents, community leaders and students – success is inevitable.  Again, that might seem broad or simplistic, but after spending four years in an environment with high intellectual standards, it’s hard to ignore the lack of such standards here in Pohnpei. 

    I want to be crystal clear on one thing – these students, including the ones who are extremely behind, are not dumb.  They are very industrious, creative and downright tough (I have yet to see a Pohnpeian kid cry, despite witnessing some nasty falls).  They are simply the products of a failed system.  The institutions and traditions that make up this system are deeply entrenched and steeped in a culture of ambivalence.  Working within this system has been a challenge to say the least.  God is no doubt teaching me the importance of patience (over and over and over). 

    Despite any frustrations, I have enjoyed working with the kids conducting the student reading level assessments.  Many times after finishing the assessment I would encourage the student to read more, adding “Knowledge is power!”  It might be a bit corny, but it’s true!  When I say “knowledge,” I’m not referring to knowing dates wars started and what an old white guy said (though as a history buff, those are good things to know!).  For these kids, “knowledge” is reading proficiency.  Here’s how it goes for far too many Pohnpeian students:
  • Enter high school 3-4 years behind in their reading level
  • Get pushed through high school, being lucky if reading at an 8th grade level at graduation
  • Enter COM (College of Micronesia) if pass entrance exam
  • Face far too much remedial education at COM, become discouraged and drop out after less than a year
Of course this isn’t the course of events for every Pohnpeian, but it is certainly a notable trend.  If these kids enter high school 3-4 years behind, unless they are lucky enough to run into an amazing teacher somewhere, they are on a track for failure. 

    Here’s the problem.  Now we’re going to do something about it.  We visited all the principals of our adopted schools this week presenting them our report which included our recommendations derived from our teacher and principal evaluations and the results from our student reading level assessments.  The principals were especially excited to get each student’s reading level.  Now that they know what level each student is reading they can work with each student appropriately, giving him or her the proper amount of attention and assigning the proper resources. 

    Indeed, knowledge is power.


(Side note: I’m planning on posting on the blog once a week, on Thursday or Friday – so to most of you who read this, on Wednesday or Thursday.  Occasionally I’ll post more often, and I might be delayed in posting if the Internet goes down like it did for a while this week.  Just an FYI.)


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A quote from Dr. Benjamin Rush, founder of Dickinson College, on the wall in the Dickinson Admissions Building