Picture
Completed solar panel unit on Pakin Atoll
__     This time last year I was graduating from college, reflecting on how much I had learned and grown over the previous four years.  I was still hearing people say “Microwhat? when introducing my plans for the future, but I was excited for my next adventure.  A long summer later and I was in Pohnpei.  It hasn’t really sunk in yet, but I only have a little over a week left in Pohnpei.  While reality will soon smack me in the face, I have been reflecting again on how much I have learned and grown over the past year.  In the midst of this reflection, I realized that in a way, I’m “graduating” from Pohnpei.  Let me explain.

    When I first talked to John, the Executive Director of MAHI International, about volunteering in Pohnpei, I was first introduced to the solar project on Pakin Atoll, an outer island approximately 30 miles from Pohnpei.  I researched grants and started fundraising for the project, excited at the prospect of transforming the life of the residents of Pakin, who have never lived with power on their island.  While things changed and I shifted my focus to education here on Pohnpei, I was always excited at the prospect of contributing to this project in any way I could.  I’m happy to report this past week we installed 16 solar panel units on the school roof in Pakin!  This power will be used primarily for an ice machine and freezer which will revolutionize the economy of the island as the main source of income is fishing.  There is a lot of extra power as well which is exciting as it might lead to future projects such as a computer lab for the school.

    On Pakin I also had the chance to help with health screenings of the islanders, assisting Ben, a doctor who is volunteering for MAHI International.  There are about 60 people living on Pakin, a number which inflates during the summer months when high school students return from Pohnpei.  We screened 40 adults and were able to educate them about many health issues about everything from quitting smoking to diabetes.  Life on Pakin is a different world.  One thing is for sure, most of my city friends wouldn’t be too comfortable.  There are more pigs than people, no running water, and if you want to eat dinner it’s a plate of rice unless you get in the ocean and catch a fish.  Many people see pictures of places this and wish they could live on a beautiful island paradise.  While it is absolutely gorgeous many overlook how tough island life actually is.  I have a tremendous amount of respect for these people on the outer islands and their incredible toughness.

    Once we got back from Pakin it was back to the grind.  I was really excited for Friday morning when we had a meeting with an embassy here regarding a certain grant application.  Back in December I wrote a grant to receive 16 iPads for our education program.  We heard very positive feedback from this embassy after a long delay and re-writing the grant for 40 iPads, with the assistance of Ap, the Peace Corps volunteer on Pakin.  We were a little worried however when they asked to meet regarding our application.  We were able to get our hands on an iPad on island and showed them an application we plan to use and answered all their concerns.  The grant was re-submitted with the very minor additions and the grant is all but set in stone (as it isn’t set in stone, I have not mentioned the embassy – once it is I will heap praise on their awesome nation!).

    When John, Ap, and I walked out of the meeting, it was then I started thinking about how I’m “graduating” from Pohnpei.  We have worked tirelessly to receive these iPads and it’s becoming a reality!  Any college student, past or present, can recall the intense satisfaction one feels after submitting all their work or finishing that last exam to finish a school year.  I felt a similar feeling when we realized the iPads are actually coming – a long period (over a semester long this time!) of work, dedication, and persistence culminating in a moment of where we could revel in our achievement.  These iPads aren’t the final answer – there is no silver bullet – but this tool will be an incredible addition to our education program.

    Speaking of graduation, this is our last week in the schools.  While I’m sad to leave our students I’m very pleased with the progress made this year, especially amidst our limited resources.  As I reflect on all that MAHI International has accomplished during my time here, I will be very proud of the solar project on Pakin and our acquisition of the iPads, but I will be most proud of our student’s increased English proficiency.  I’ll let the graphs below speak for themselves.

    In the fun department throughout this past week, my roommate Ian and I were able to snorkel on the reef next to Pakin.  No picture or video could capture the beauty of this place.  You snorkel in water about five feet deep along the reef, then boom! – a drop down into the ocean so far you can’t see the bottom.  The blue is the most vivid color I have ever seen and there are fish with the most vibrant and striking colors swimming everywhere.  I felt like I was in an aquarium.  I know what most mothers, including my own, are thinking at this point – where are the sharks?!?  Yes, we stumbled across some.  When there was just one shark, maybe four feet or so long, it caught our attention but we were more interested in observing it than feeling any sense of fear.  When there was two of them we backed off a little bit, but continued about our merry snorkeling way.  When the third shark showed up, this time maybe five feet, we stopped moving around and decided to stop diving down for the time being.  Only a little bit later when the fourth and decidedly biggest shark arrived it was time to take a break and hang out on the reef!  I might be willing to take some risks by entering shark infested waters, but I’m not crazy!

    This past weekend I was also able to visit Kepirohi Waterfall, which is likely the most breathtaking waterfall I’ve seen on Pohnpei just from the sheer size of it (pictures and video below!).  While you can’t jump off it due to the lack of depth at the bottom, there is a place you can sit underneath the falls.  It was incredibly loud but really fun to be on the other side of the tumbling water.  It was also especially beautiful thanks to the 6.5” of rain we received in one day (5/18) a couple days prior.

    Just FYI – my next post I have been working on since the day I arrived on Pohnpei.  You won’t want to miss it!

Picture
Locals helping install solar panels on Pakin Atoll
Picture
Pakin man with an epic beard looking out over the lagoon
Picture
Hello there, friend
Picture
Picturesque Kepirohi (pronounced Kep-roy) Waterfall
Picture
Can you see me under there?
 
Picture
    Throughout my time on Pohnpei I have witnessed a constant dynamic among the local people.  While the western influence has pervaded into almost every aspect of society there are still elements of the original Pohnpeian culture.  As I have mentioned before, many of these elements have been perverted by the western influence.  A great example of this is sakau.  Previously, sakau was a ceremonial drink that was only drank by the high traditional leaders on very special occasions.  Now it is drank by over 70% of the islanders daily.

    This constant dynamic I speak of is how the islanders are “stuck in between.”  They are Pohnpeians, which holds its own traditions and customs, but also have the western culture and its accompanying expectations forced upon them.  How does one strike a balance between these two cultures?  How do young Pohnpeians form their identity amidst all the confusion?  There aren’t any easy answers to these questions and the lack of answers often leads to fatal consequences.  Suicide rates in Micronesia, particularly for young adult males, are among the highest in the world.  Even during my six months here, I have heard several tragic stories of young people taking their lives.

    This problem is far more complex than I could ever address in a short blog article.  It’s worth noting though that suicide is a major issue in areas where the original culture has been taken away or perverted.  Look no further than Native American reservations.  In many ways, Micronesians are facing the same issues as the Native Americans – both struggle with alcoholism, drug abuse, suicide, unemployment and many other issues.

    While there are numerous factors that contribute to all the issues facing these indigenous people who have lost their culture, I believe that one of the largest causes is the loss of community.  It’s a well-known fact that the modern western culture champions an individualistic narrative, while community is tossed to the side.  In my opinion this is a troubling issue for all people, but is especially so for individuals whose entire culture revolves around the community.  We really shouldn’t be surprised at these horrific consequences given what these people have been through.

    As I have mentioned before, I believe the easiest way to “fix” Pohnpei would be to shut down the airport and stop all the ships from carrying in cargo from the outside world.  Pohnpei would be forced to go back to its original culture and while the transition would be tumultuous at times, I believe many of the issues facing Pohnpei today would slowly diminish until they were eliminated completely.  However, this will likely never happen.  Where do we go from here?

    Well that’s not an easy question and there are many things that need to be done to help these people cope with being stuck in between two different worlds.  With our education program, we are helping hundreds of students with their English skills so they can pursue further education and hopefully return to their homeland and find modern-day answers to the issues present throughout these islands.  The challenges facing indigenous communities are complex beyond our understanding.   But while reform can only come from within, we as outsiders can help create the environment in which change is possible.

    This post was inspired by FSM Cultural Day which was this past Friday.  I found it mind blowing to see people adopt one identity in these cultural dances, then watch them adopt another identity by hopping in their car and picking up some soda at a local store.  A not-so-great video I took of one of the dances is posted below.  If you're really interested there's a longer, well-done video someone did of the days events below that.


Picture
Now that's a lot of culture --- a Yapese dance on FSM Cultural Day
Picture
Talk about loss of culture - 1892, at the Carlisle Indian School, in Carlisle, PA
Picture
Recent panorama shot from atop Sokehs Rock
 
Picture
A teacher's desk. It's probably just water in there. Probably...
_     I have written extensively of the many roadblocks and frustrations we encounter throughout our work here in Pohnpei, but trust me, I barely scratch the surface.  I knew when I came here it wasn’t going to be easy and our collective perseverance and resolve would be tested.  Of course though, knowing something in your head is entirely different than experiencing it firsthand.  I remember the exact moment when all this hit home.

    Way back in October, a few weeks after I arrived, Mr. B and I were in a slight state of shock with just how bad the schools really are.  We were sitting in the car about to leave from a school that had only one teacher for three grades.  Most of the kids were sitting around or had gone home, even though it was only 11:00.  Despite the negative circumstances Mr. B was often making jokes and laughing about the whole thing.  I said while laughing along with him, “Mr. B, what are we going to do?!?  Why are you laughing?!?”  His response was priceless and classic Mr. B ---

Picture
_





“If you do not make things funny, you will get heart attack.”

_While his response obviously made me laugh, there is so much truth to it.  This attitude has served Mr. B extremely well throughout his life on Pohnpei working to help his people.  Indeed, he very well might have had a heart attack by now if he didn’t have this approach!

    Today we went to our largest adopted school which has six classes – two classes each for 6th, 7th and 8th grade.  There were only three teachers and the principal wasn’t present.  This left each teacher responsible for their 20 some kids, plus the 20 some other students.  When the teachers are left with this predicament they stay with their class and give the other class a bunch of busy work a few times throughout the day.  You can imagine how productive a group of 6th graders are when left alone to do busy work from a textbook.  This happens all the time on Pohnpei – I have never heard of substitute teachers.

    When we got to the 8th grade classroom, and saw that there was only one teacher for the two classes, I had to step outside the classroom and remember Mr. B’s wisdom.  I had seen both 8th grade teachers earlier that morning, but one left for Kolonia during lunch.  Heck, without any principal, who is there to enforce anything?  It's worth noting that this is one of our better schools!

    Despite all the frustration, I have learned, and rather quickly, that you can’t expect change to happen quickly, if at all.  What I mean by this is that change can take years, even decades.  In order to survive days like today, it is critical to have an even-keeled mindset.  And it helps for personal health, when working in a place like Pohnpei, to take everything with a grain of salt, and if at all possible, laugh about the craziness.

    There are countless lessons I’ll take with me when I leave this island, and this will be at the top of the list.  We all encounter difficulties but if we can laugh about it and recognize how imperfect this world is and all the people in it, then we’ll be better for it.  And less likely to get a heart attack.
Picture
Just a normal scene witnessed on our drive back to town today
Picture
Sunset on the tiny island of Black Coral this past weekend, looking out to Ahnd Atoll
 
Picture
Squeezing Sakau in Hibiscus Bark
_    First of all, my apologies for the delay in this post.  Like most people, things were busier than normal around the holidays.  I promised at the end of my last post that my next entry I was going to take a break from writing about education and instead discuss something cultural.  As I was looking for cultural topics to write about, it hit me again that I have become so accustomed to the culture here that it’s difficult for me to recognize how remarkably different this place is compared to America.  I suspected that the holidays would present many new traditions and customs that I have not confronted yet.  My suspicions were confirmed when attending several local Christmas parties.

    A major part of Pohnpeian culture is sakau (pronounced sa-cow).  Also known as kava, this drink used to be a ceremonial drink only available to the highest of the traditional leadership, but now is consumed by 70% of Pohnpeians, with many drinking it daily.  It’s rare to go more than a mile without seeing the sign “Mie Sakau” (We have Sakau).  The drink’s main effects are making the consumer very relaxed and tired, producing not exactly a “high” but more of a total-body lull.  Subjectively, I believe the widespread drinking of sakau is not as bad as alcohol.  Take for example how it affects driving capabilities.  We all know that driving drunk can lead to disastrous consequences.  Driving under the influence of sakau however is more funny than dangerous.  The average speed of a sakau driver is 1-3mph.  I have passed cars going this slow more times than I can count.  As you can imagine, when a sakau driver crashes into a tree, he falls asleep, wakes up the next morning, and goes about his merry way. 

    This Christmas I had the chance to try sakau.  Sakau is consumed across many islands in the Pacific, but is unique to each island.  Therefore, you often hear about the preparation of “sakau en Pohnpei,” i.e. Pohnpeian sakau.  It is prepared by crushing the roots of the kava plant.  In almost every nas in Pohnpei (the traditional huts) there is a flat piece of basaltic stone for the preparation of sakau.  The root is pounded with rounded river rocks then some water is added.  The mushy root/water substance is then packed into the bark from a hibiscus tree.  Consequently, it is twisted until the liquid substance is squeezed into a communal coconut cup when it is ready to drink.  The substance is viscous, thanks to the hibiscus sap. 

    I was slightly concerned about trying sakau because I heard of a non-local having his tongue go numb for three months and having to talk with a lisp after drinking sakau.  I wanted though to try it, at least to say I partook in a central element of Pohnpeian culture.  I only took a large sip but it was unlike anything I have ever tasted.  Immediately, I felt a numbing/tingling sensation on my lips.  I was warned that many find the taste absolutely disgusting.  It looks like muddy water, and kind of tastes like that as well, but I didn’t find it that dreadful.  The numbing sensation lasted for about ten minutes.  I never had a lisp though and wasn’t concerned the sensation would remain for long! 

    While I’m glad I had the chance to try sakau, I’m concerned over how dramatically it impacts the Pohnpeian people.  I have read that it has no addictive properties, but many locals are obsessed with sakau and have to drink it every day.  Whether that qualifies as an “addiction” is a matter of opinion.  I have no hard evidence to support this, but I strongly suspect that the consistent consumption of sakau is disturbing normal brain functions.  Those who drink it daily seem to function even slower than normal and overall the sakau culture is a large contributor to the general snail-like pace of all proceedings in Pohnpei.  All that said, sakau is a major part of Pohnpeian life despite the diminished impact of traditional culture and will likely remain that way for years to come. 

    This weekend, I am looking forward to experiencing the Pohnpeian New Year.  Apparently, things get pretty crazy – New Year is a big deal.  So this year say “Parakup Mwao” (Pear-a-cup Mwow) – “Happy New Year” in Pohnpeian. 

     On the work side of things, I had the chance to tag along with John and meet Governor Ehsa (the Governor of Pohnpei) the week before Christmas to discuss our education project and learn more about opportunities for potential funding.  We also have been busy writing grants to the Australian Embassy and developing our iPad program further.  I’m looking forward to getting back in the schools next week and getting started with our program!

    After talking with some relatives and friends back in the States I have been alerted that more pictures are necessary!  Click here for a random collection of shots from November and December!


Picture
Squeezing Sakau into Communal Coconut Cup
Picture
The Flag of Pohnpei - notice the communal coconut cup for sakau front and center
 
Picture
Local Bananas
    As previously noted, one of the most common questions I have received before I left for Pohnpei was what was I going to eat?  I had read about local foods but didn’t really have a good answer, so I just said “food.”  This is an interesting part of the world because there is food from many different cultures all in one place.  So while there is some American food, there is also a lot of Japanese, Filipino and local food as well.  I’m happy to report though that there are no fast food restaurants (or at least not chains).  The cynical side of me says it’s only a matter of time before a McDonalds pops up – they’d make a killing.  Most of my meals consist of budget-friendly courses like pasta and beans and rice.  I have tried some new food for the first time though.

    The Japanese food I’ve tried has been really good.  Today I ate somen, which is a cold noodle with an onion and ginger sauce.  Most of the Japanese food I’ve eaten though has come in packaging, as everything in Japan comes in a package, or so I’ve been told.  Among these are asparagus bread sticks, nutrition biscuits and this coffee-milk drink called Pokka which I’m slowly becoming addicted to.  I’ve only touched the tip of the iceberg with all the available Japanese food.   

    What I really was excited to try though was the local food.  I have eaten plenty of fish, mostly Skipjack and Yellow Fin Tuna.  I also prepared and ate a Surgeon fish I caught last week.  I’m looking forward to fishing in a couple months when it is the season for my favorite fish, Mahi Mahi.  With these fish though we haven’t just eaten the filets and thrown out the rest.  As per local custom, the best part of the fish is the stuff most people toss in the trash can.  I have eaten all parts of the fish head including the eyes and also the heart, sashimi style.  Check out the video below to see how much I enjoyed that!

    Besides fish I have really enjoyed other local foods.  I have eaten breadfruit, coconuts, papaya and many different types of bananas.   Breadfruit is the most important food to the locals, as it has deep cultural meaning being the main staple food of the islanders.  In Pohnpeian, breadfruit is translated as “Mahi” (pronounced “my”) – an interesting anecdote considering the name of our non-profit organization.   

    Quick side story: The other day we were eating papaya and threw the seeds over the balcony onto some dirt here at the MAHI Hospitality Center.  About five days later John was cutting the grass and knew well enough not to cut the papaya trees which were already about four inches tall.  He said they will be taller than us in a few months and produce fruit a few months after that.  It’s very easy to grow food in Pohnpei!

    My favorite local food is probably karat (pronounced “ka-rotch” – emphasis on the “ka”).  It’s a short, thick banana probably three inches in diameter.  You peel half off and eat it with a spoon.  One of the great things about it is how it is ridiculously good for you.  The numbers are staggering of how many vitamins it contains.  I’ve heard numbers that it contains more than 3000% of your daily value in certain vitamins.  Historically some have thought it was bad for you because it makes your urine bright yellow, while in fact it’s just caused from an overload of vitamins.  John warned me this was going to happen, but it was pretty crazy when it did!  I’ve also eaten different bananas prepared in a variety of ways, such as boiled, which I was told actually brings out more nutrients than if you eat them raw. 

    My favorite thing I’ve eaten thus far has been dytuss (no idea of the spelling, pronounced “thai-toose”).  You make it by smashing banana into flour, making bite size pieces, and deep frying the whole thing.  I only had one but apparently at different potlucks there are whole platters.  I’m looking forward to the day when I’m at such an event.

    Overall, it has been an interesting experience to try new foods, having no idea what to expect.  There are plenty of more foods I am looking forward to trying, but I will definitely do my best to avoid all the high-sugar, processed foods that are the cause of an epidemic of diabetes, hypertension and other noncommunicable diseases on Pohnpei. 

    Today is FSM Independence Day so there is no school, and most schools and government offices are taking off tomorrow (Friday) as well.  We have been very busy with our education project though and are one school away from completing our student reading level assessments!  We have been spending a lot of time brainstorming where to start in reforming these schools, focusing on how to create lasting and sustainable change.  Stay tuned for the final results and our game plan for reform!


The local belief is that if you eat the heart of a Yellow Fin Tuna raw (sashimi) you will never get seasick again.  I figured there was no harm in trying...  And in case you were wondering, it tastes exactly like you think it would.

Picture
A 40 lb. Yellow Fin Tuna - the biggest catch I have been a part of...so far!
 
Picture
    We are out of the classrooms this week as the schools have Monday and Friday off and Finals Tuesday-Thursday.  We are taking this time to compile all our data collected in the schools so far and plan how we will attempt to reform the problems we have confronted.  I thought I could take this break from reports in schools to write about nutrition here in Pohnpei.  It’s no secret that the average Pohnpeian does not keep a healthy diet.  Prior to colonization, they were subsistence farmers, eating a diet of fish, taro, bananas and other local food.  With the drastic change in lifestyle has come a drastic change in diet.  While there is still an abundance of fresh local food, the islanders taste buds now prefer ramen noodles, soda, Kool Aid, canned meats and turkey tail (which has 13x more fat than the rest of the turkey).  As a result of these diet choices, Pohnpei and the other three states in the FSM have some of the highest rates of diabetes per capita in the world.  It is not unusual to see individuals with limbs amputated from the disease.

    One of the biggest issues is the lack of basic health education.  MAHI has made efforts to bring this education to the islanders but obviously it is an uphill battle.  I think the best way to paint the picture of the severity of the situation is a few scenes I have witnessed.  On our first site visit, I saw the girl in the attached picture, licking her hands.  Her hands were bright red, but it clearly wasn’t blood as it looked like some sort of powder.  I asked John and he told me it was Kool Aid mix.  Since that first girl I have seen countless kids walking around licking their hands.  A common lunch is dry ramen mixed with Kool Aid.  I have been told that kids die every year from renal failure as a result of this diet. 

    Another scene occurred when I picked up Mr. B the other day.  A girl about ten-years old was walking to school drinking a can of soda.  Apparently soda is a common breakfast.  Perhaps the most shocking scene though was a parent giving her baby a lollipop to suck on instead of a pacifier.  While this might invoke outrage, I don’t get the impression that this harm is done intentionally.  I truly believe that many of the islanders, particularly the parents feeding their children, don’t know the negative effects of this diet, or at least the severity of the consequences.  Compounding this diet is the lack of other basic health knowledge such as the importance of brushing your teeth and regular exercise. 

    It’s easy to look at the current problems and blame the islanders for their lack of knowledge.  But if you look at the history, it’s difficult to blame anyone besides the United States.  Prior to the US occupation of Micronesia, the islands were colonized by Spain, Germany and Japan.  It wasn’t until the US flooded these islands with sweets that these problems emerged.  After studying and spending some time on the Navajo reservation in Arizona, it is clear that Micronesians and Native Americans face many of the same issues.  Ultimately, what they share in common is the curse of government handouts.  This deserves another post or two, but I feel it is appropriate to put the complex issue of nutrition here in Pohnpei and throughout the FSM in the proper context. 

    One of the most common questions I received prior to arriving in Pohnpei and since is what I eat.  I’m going to hold you in suspense until my next post, which includes video of me sampling a local delicacy…

For now, check out the videos below of some jumps off the Lehn Paipohn Waterfall this past weekend.  Sorry mom!


 
Picture
Photo courtesy MAHI International
    Today was an interesting day, visiting many of the places I will be working in Kolonia and meeting people I will be collaborating with on various education projects.  Throughout this time I took advantage of the opportunity to pick John’s brain particularly about work culture in Pohnpei and the many obstacles he has confronted during his eleven years so far on the island.  What will stick out in my mind about today though is our visit to the Pohnpei State Hospital.  The education initiative of MAHI is actually a recent development, as the majority of their work has focused on basic human services including healthcare.  A large 40-foot container organized by John in the States is scheduled to arrive in about a month filled with hospital beds, bassinets, exam tables and many other medical supplies for the hospital.  MAHI has also worked on construction projects in the hospital, such as recently converting storage rooms into private rooms for patients. 

    While MAHI’s past work in the hospital has been very helpful, the current state of the facilities is simply shocking.  On the whole, the building looks like it hasn’t been touched since the 1940s.  Rust coats many of the metal instruments.  Ants cover many areas of the floor.  Less than twenty yards from the ER ward, the ceiling was rotting away and dripping from a leak in some area of the buildings structure.  All in all, the entire building was just dirty; even the sign in front is covered in rust.  More than just the building itself, the hospital is lacking basic supplies.  None of the beds have any sheets on them since previously they disappeared when patients were discharged.  John told me that much of the hospital is without soap as, like the sheets, employees and patients took the soap home.  (I will have a separate post in the future about the Pohnpeian tendency to have supplies, such as school textbooks, disappear never to be seen again). 

    Perhaps someday I will post pictures of what I saw today, but I really don’t think pictures will do the scene justice.  Vast improvements are needed but like in most of the world, change is really hard.  Indeed, I’m sure I will experience many frustrations with the lack of progress, or at least the speed of any progress, during my time in Pohnpei.  The phrase often used is “island time.”  To get anything done, whether trying to get information from a government agency, get Internet expanded in your home, or even pay for an item at a store –takes forever.  A great example is John trying to get power to the house he built.  It literally took three years and that only happened with a stroke of luck and a lot of perseverance. 

    Despite the awful state of the hospital and the often stagnant to slow pace of progress, it is encouraging that progress is possible through organizations like MAHI International.  When there are people on the ground like John, Kat and all those who support MAHI whether through volunteering their time or resources, change is not only possible, it’s inevitable.  This change isn’t fast or easy, but after seeing how driven the MAHI team is and how much of a heart they have for service; it’s clearly evident that no obstacle is insurmountable.  I hope I can cultivate such a passion during my time here and I am excited to help improve the education system, ready to tackle all the obstacles undeniably waiting for me.