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_     One of the first things I read about when researching Pohnpei was Nan Madol.  As I noted last week, Nan Madol is the site of an ancient kingdom.  The whole complex of Nan Madol is constructed of very large, heavy rocks.  Nobody knows how these rocks got there and how this immense rock city was constructed.  The first thing I thought of when I was reading about Nan Madol was how it is like the Stonehenge.  I then made the large leap to call it the “Stonehenge of the Pacific.”  While walking around Nan Madol last Saturday, I became more convinced that my title was fitting.  The whole complex is expansive and I only saw a small part of it as you can only navigate the channels within Nan Madol by kayak or paddleboard.  I also was shocked at how tall parts of the wall are – I measured one section at easily 25 feet using an old Boy Scout trick.  Calling some of these rocks immense is an understatement.  I have been told there are rocks over ten tons.  All of this brings us to one question: how in the world was this place constructed?

    No one has an exact date on when this city was inhabited, but the construction dates range from the 8th – 13th century, with inhabitation through the 15th century.  However, some carbon dating has shown the construction to have started as early as 200 BC.  What makes this even more interesting is that the rock used to build Nan Madol is found on the other side of the island.  The Pohnpeian myth is that the ruined city was built by magic.  After witnessing the landscape and size of Nan Madol, I can’t blame them for scoffing at the notion this complex was built simply by human strength and ingenuity. 

    Believing in magic and superstition is not uncommon in Pohnpeian culture.  While I’m not an expert on local beliefs, I have witnessed several individuals give warnings to heed local tradition.  We have been told not to camp on Ahnd (an outer island an hour away from Pohnpei) because it is the home to demons.  It was also interesting to be warned not to visit the river behind our house.  Apparently, there is an old Pohnpeian lady with white skin and wears a red lava lava (a local dress) who walks along the river at nighttime.  I suppose on an isolated island in the vast Pacific Ocean, it’s easy for myths to flourish. 

    As a history buff I’m a fan of learning and knowing as much as we can about the past, but there is something intriguing about the unknown.  There are those who will look at Nan Madol and come up with several theories based on science and reason on how this rock city was built.  There are others who will let their mind wander, believing structures such as the Stonehenge or Nan Madol must have been built by aliens or some mythic creature.  I don’t know where exactly I fall on this spectrum, but I love the debate.  The best part: no one will ever definitely know the answer to these mysteries.  In between all of the speculation though, I hope we never forget to cherish these beautiful pieces of history and marvel at what can be created when we harness the limitless potential of human (or perhaps alien?) ingenuity.

Next post: Education Update!

Click here for pictures from hiking up Mt. Kupwuriso (the second highest peak in Pohnpei) two weekends ago, all of the Manta Ray pictures, and the full collection of shots of Nan Madol!


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Some massive rocks making up an exterior wall of Nan Madol



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